Thursday, February 9, 2017

Cruising through the Leeward Islands aboard Maraluna

Our Caribbean Adventure in The Leeward Islands
Jan 19, 2017- Feb 6, 2017

We were asked by friends, Suzanne and Hugo, to help them take their boat, a 46 foot Beneteau named Maraluna, from the British Virgin Islands to Guadeloupe. Our answer was YES!

Jan 19-  Travel day
We flew to St Thomas and took a ferry to Sopers Hole on Tortola, BVI, and met our friends aboard Maraluna. Then we provisioned the boat and discussed our general plans for the trip.

Maraluna 
Suzanne and Hugo

Jan 20  BVI
It had been very windy for a few weeks before we arrived and a weather window opened the very first day we were there, so we sailed from West End, Tortola, up to Virgin Gorda. We lunched at The Fat Virgin on fish sandwiches and anchored off Necker Island in preparation for our first and longest leg of the trip.

Captain Hugo

Suzanne whipping up a gourmet meal in the galley

Jan 21  BVI to St Martin
We left BVI at 3am for the 75 mile trip to St Martin. Winds were light and the seas were calm with gentle rolling waves. Beautiful! Carol saw a shooting star and we all enjoyed the sunrise. Sunrises and sunsets at sea are such a privilege and spiritual experience.
Safety was very important out at sea! Lifejackets were a must for the ocean crossings. We always wore them.  We also had a Delorme In Reach which is a GPS tracking device and can also send an SOS. The boat also had a liferaft for emergency use.
Arrived in Marigot Bay, French St Martin about 12 hours later. 
Bathing was done off the transom with a special soap that lathers in salt water. Then a quick rinse with fresh water to conserve our onboard supply.  Water was harder to come by in the islands than expected.

Sunrise on the Caribbean Sea

Underway in calm conditions

Jan 22 St Martin to Sint Maartin
Walked around Marigot Bay. We had our first taste of French pastries, pain au chocolate and croissants. Yum! Then motored over to the Dutch side of Sint Maarten. We got a slip in the IGY Marina in Simpson Bay.  This was located in a large protected lagoon and entered through a drawbridge.  Many megayatchs use Simpson Bay as a base in the Leewards.  There were countless very LARGE yachts (>200ft) including Steve Jobs fancy boat that looked somewhat like an IPad. Every island requires customs and immigration stops. In and out, in and out became a theme for the next few weeks.

Bob at the helm


St Martin and Sint Maarten are bustling islands. Even have casinos 

Jan 23  Sint Maarten
We cleared customs and dinghied to some chandleries for boat supplies.  Then we hung out at the Yacht Club pool.  There were a number of young yachties here waiting for delivery assignments. 

IGY Yacht Club
Jan 24 Sint Maarten
Took the bus to the capital, Phillipsburg.  Several big cruise ships in port with the usual crowded cruise shipper streets.  Back at Simpson Bay we got to go to the beach right off the airport runway and we had a wonderful lunch of wahoo at Skipjacks on the waterfront.

Beach with promenade
Jan 25  Sint Maarten- St Barts
We sailed about 25 miles to St. Barts. Home of more megayachts!  And the rich and famous!  We snorkeled in beautiful Anse du Columbier.  Lots of parrotfish and butterfly fish. 
At sunset, we were treated to the "green flash". This is a phenomenon that occurs as the sun disappears over the horizon and the last vestige of the sun turns bright green. It is rare to see it and we were very excited. 

Megayachts
Limitless anchored by us. Its owner is the CEO of The Limited and Victorias Secret.  318 feet long, $100 million.

Jan 26  St Barts
Motored over to the town of Gustavia to check- in and anchored in the harbor. Gustavia is where the rich and famous hang out.  It is a first class town with many upscale shops. We had lunch at Gustav Burger and bought pearl bracelets at Kalinas and Tainos. Then back to a mooring at Anse du Columbier for a swim and walk on the beach.


Overlook

St Barts streets
Jan 27  St Barts
Returned to Gustavia. We discovered a lovely beach from the vantage point of a fort.  Had lunch at the fancy Shellona Restaurant on Shell Beach. Back again to our mooring ball and snorkeled with turtles feeding in the seagrass!

St Barts- Gustavia Harbor

Shell Beach

Shellona Restaurant
Suzanne and Hugo

Carol and Bob

Jan 28  St Barts to St Kitts
Up for a 6am departure to St Kitts, about 60 miles away. This was a rough passage with 20-30 knot winds. Bob caught a tuna with his new handline fishing gear! We were tired from white knuckle sailing and pulled into Zante Marina in Basseterre.

Bob so ecstatic to finally catch a fish! This provided 2 dinners.
Jan 29  St Kitts
St Kitts was very different. Loud music all night! A very lush island with great open air markets to buy fruits and vegetables but not much more. We rode the St Kitts Scenic Railway to learn about the history of sugar plantations.

Verdant island

Black volcanic sand beach

St Kitts Scenic Railway
Jan 30  St Kitts to Nevis
Headed for Nevis, St Kitts sister island, just 2 hours away. We picked up a mooring at Pinney Beach, just off from The Four Seasons Hotel.  Took a swim and we again saw the green flash at sunset!

Nevis- an island that touches the sky.  Apparently Columbus thought it was snowcapped.
mooring/anchorage on Nevis at sunset
Jan 31  Nevis
Cleared customs in Charlestown, Nevis.  We took a tour with John in his taxi and had lunch at The Golden Rock Inn. Lots of churches dating from the 17th century here. And a plantation from 1670, The Heritage House.  This was a sugar plantation for rum making. Sugar cane can be seen everywhere.
There are wild monkeys on both these islands and are considered a major pest! 

The Heritage House- cistern on left

Lunch at The Golden Rock Inn

Sugar mill processing area with chimney
Feb 1  Nevis
Since it was very windy, we spent an extra day here . We walked around The Four Seasons (cheapest room $700/night) and had a delicious lobster lunch at Sunshines, a restaurant/bar on Pinney Beach.

Four Seasons Hotel Nevis

Sunshines Beach Bar and Restaurant
Feb 2  Nevis
Still too windy, so we snorkeled the breakwater at The Four Seasons- turtle, lion fish, drum, trumpet, puffers, and squid! Returned to Charlestown for supplies and WIFI. Wonderful tomatoes at the farm markets.

Feb 3  Nevis to Montserrat
Travelled 35 miles, 8 hours from Nevis- Montserrat.  It was much windier and bigger waves than  forecasted.  Cleared customs in Little Bay and took a tour of the island with George.  There is an active volcano here, which last erupted in 2010. The capital city, Plymouth, was destroyed during the 1997 eruption. There are still sulfur smelling gases emitted from this volcano.
Maraluna in Little Bay Harbor

Looking over path of destruction from 1997 eruption

Clouds and fumes from volcano
Feb 4  Montserrat to Guadeloupe
We motorsailed to Guadeloupe, another 35 mile, 8 hour day in 20-25 knots, roughest day yet. Arrived in Deshaies, a cute waterfront beach town.  Guadeloupe is popular with Canadian and European tourists and only French is spoken here. More French pastries and baguettes! Our hosts prepared duck confi and champagne for dinner to celebrate our arrival in Guadeloupe.  They plan to spend a month here exploring the large island and out islands.
Looking out to anchorage from L'Amer restaurant

Deshaies harbor

Deshaies town street

Excited to complete the voyage!
Feb 5  Guadeloupe
Time to return home!  Found a WIFI site and made flight plans.  Norwegian Airlines had a nonstop flight to Baltimore reasonably priced, so we booked.  Did some final snorkeling our last afternoon.

Feb 6  Guadeloupe
Suzanne and Hugo rented a car and drove us to Point A Pitre. We checked into a hotel in preparation for our early morning flight. Got one last chance for some sun at the hotel pool.

Saying goodbye on the dock
Feb 7  Guadeloupe 
We flew home! What a wonderful trip! Challenging winds, great company, gourmet cooking onboard Maraluna, great snorkeling and sunsets.
C'est bon!

Thursday, May 12, 2016

5/7-5/11

May 7-8
Our final stretch up the Chesapeake Bay! It was nice to be back in home waters!
We left Portsmouth, headed north,  and turned in at Deltaville.  Anchored in Jackson Creek. Next day was very windy and gusty.  We stayed put and took a hike and went out to lunch. Fellow cruisers here, Bonnie and Phil on Windaway and Jill and Richard on Jill Christy, also took a lay day so we had company.

May 9
Had a long day to Solomons Island- 64 miles.  Set the hook in Mill Creek. It was cold and rainy on the Bay!
Had to find long pants and jackets and even hats!

May 10
On up to Annapolis!  When we pulled into the mooring field, we knew 6 cruising boats!  Had a group dinner at McGarveys and of course, some oyster shooters!

Sky clearing!

With our fellow cruisers in Annapolis for a celebratory dinner

May 11
This was our last day of the trip!  Motored the short distance to Rock Hall  and tied up in our slip!  A second wonderful adventure south!


Pepromenon returning to Spring Cove Marina in Rock Hall.



Friday, May 6, 2016

4/26- 5/6 North Carolina to Portsmouth, VA

April 26-27
From the Calabash River, we motored up to Southport, NC. Beautiful water and sand dunes, with lots of tough, shoaled inlets. And, of course, the dolphins, which disappear whenever the camera comes out!  We spent 2 days here and visited with Liz and Ray, who we had spent time with in Marathon, FL when they rented a house nearby. They have a beach house here in Oak Island, NC. Liz and Ray had us to dinner, allowed us to do laundry, and use their car to reprovision.  It was a wonderful time off the boat for a break!

NC inlet

Bob with Liz and Ray.  You can see the ocean and the ICW from this porch!

April 28
We put in a long day, timing our travel up the Cape Fear River to go with the strong current. Anchored in the basin at Camp LeJune and listened to the helicopters coming and going.

April 29-30
We decided return to Beaufort. Love this place! Great restaurants and walking from the city docks! We met 2 other Island Packet 31 owners. And we were invited to Happy Hour on Sovereignty, a 36 Kadey Krogen Manatee. Bob says this will be his next boat! We are always excited if we time our stay coincides with a Farmer's Market.  There was a great one Sat. morning and we stocked up on fresh produce and bread.

Island Packet sailboats with Kadey Krogen in background.
While in Beaufort, we took a 15 minute bus ride over to nearby Morehead City.  Carol's grandparents liked to stop at The Sanitary Restaurant and Fish Market on their way south.  This place opened in 1938 and was still going strong today.  Inland and offshore fish were the specialty.


The bar at the Sanitary Restaurant

Bob shucking his peck of oysters.
May 1
We crossed the Pamlico Sound and Neuse River and anchored Campbell Creek.

May 2
Onto the Pongo River, Pongo-Alligator Canal, and Alligator River 68 miles to our anchorage on the Little Alligator River.
The landscape along the canal seemed like scenery out of a horror movie

May 3
We woke up to a wicked rain and thunderstorm.  Then, at 10am, we saw a window to cross the Albemarle Sound and took it.  We were very lucky to get up this sound in SW wind. Back to the Dismal Swamp route. We ended up at Goat Island. This was one of our prettiest anchorages and we were serenaded by bullfrogs all night!

May 4
Started through the Dismal Swamp and the first lock. We tied up at the Visitor Center dock along with 9 other northbound cruising boats. We put together a cookout and enjoyed meeting our fellow travelers. One boat was doing the Great Loop, another was from our homeport, 2 were full-time live-aboards.

Free dock at Dismal Swamp State Park visitor center with boats rafted up.

Captains grilling our dinner

Our group of cruisers
May 5-6
Finished out the Dismal Swamp and docked at the ferry basin in Portsmouth, VA. Rain and north wind kept us here. Flooding at the dock was 2-3 feet deep at high tide! 

The free dock at the base of the main street in Portsmouth

We took the ferry over to Norfolk and explored the area.
Portsmouth- Norfolk ferry

At the Naval Museum is docked the Battleship USS Wisconsin- massive!  Couldn't even fit the entire boat in a picture!